Kitten First-Year Guide in Burnaby

Bringing Your Kitten Home

Before They Arrive

Cats settle best when they have a small space to themselves at first. Set up one quiet room with food, water, a litter box, scratching posts, and hiding spots. The whole home opens up gradually over the first week.

• One litter box on each floor of the home, plus one extra (the “number of cats plus one” rule)
• Unscented clumping litter to start, and a low-sided box for very young kittens
• Stainless steel or ceramic food and water bowls, kept away from the litter box
• A vertical scratching post and at least one horizontal scratcher
• A cat-safe carrier left out in the room with a soft towel inside (start carrier training from day one)
• Several enclosed hiding spots (a covered bed, a cardboard box on its side)
• Secured window screens, especially in upper-floor apartments and condos

The First Week

Let your kitten set the pace. Many kittens hide for the first day or two, then come out as they get comfortable. Keep visits short and quiet, and offer food, water, and the litter box in predictable places. Watch for normal eating, drinking, urination, and stool quality. Book your kitten’s first wellness visit at Edmonds St. Animal Hospital within 72 hours of bringing them home. The first visit lets us confirm your kitten is healthy, plan the vaccine series, test for FIV and feline leukemia, talk through feeding and litter box setup, and answer questions. Call (604) 540-7387 to book.

At-a-Glance Vaccine Schedule

The schedule below follows AAFP guidelines and is what we recommend for kittens in Burnaby. Your kitten may have already started this series with the breeder or shelter, so bring any records you have to the first visit.

Bring your kitten’s full vaccine record to the first visit. We confirm what is done, plan the remaining doses, and discuss FIV/FeLV testing at the same time. 

Important Note on Lifestyle Vaccines

Feline lifestyle vaccines depend almost entirely on whether your kitten will spend time outdoors.

• FeLV (feline leukemia virus). Strongly recommended for any kitten who goes outside, even briefly, and for any kitten in a home with another cat whose FeLV status is unknown. FeLV is spread cat-to-cat through saliva and close contact. The series is two doses, three to four weeks apart, starting at twelve weeks, then a booster a year later. Risk-based after the one-year mark.
• Indoor-only kittens. Generally only need FVRCP and Rabies. We still test for FIV and FeLV at the first kitten visit, because either virus can be passed from the mother before adoption.
• Catio and harness access. Even controlled outdoor time on a catio or a harness counts as outdoor access for FeLV purposes if the cat could come into nose-to-nose contact with another cat through a fence or window. Talk through your setup with us so we can recommend the right vaccines.

Spay and Neuter

Most kittens are spayed or neutered at five to six months of age. There is no medical benefit to waiting longer for cats, and there is real harm in waiting too long.

• Female kittens. Female cats can come into heat as early as four months and will continue to cycle every two to three weeks until bred. Unspayed female cats face a serious lifelong risk of pyometra, a uterine infection that becomes a surgical emergency. Spaying eliminates that risk and also reduces the risk of mammary cancer if performed before the first heat.
• Male kittens. Neutering at five to six months prevents marking, roaming, and most male cat aggression. Unneutered male cats develop a strong urine odour at sexual maturity that is very difficult to live with.
• Early spay/neuter. Some shelters spay and neuter at eight to twelve weeks. This is safe in skilled hands and is the standard for shelter populations. For owned pet kittens, we generally recommend five to six months because it allows the kitten to grow a little more first.

Spay and neuter surgeries at Edmonds St. Animal Hospital include pre-surgical bloodwork, full general anaesthesia with continuous monitoring, warmed recovery, and post-operative pain control. Most kittens go home the same day. 

Nutrition for Your Kitten’s First Year

Cats are obligate carnivores, which means they need a much higher proportion of animal protein and certain amino acids (especially taurine) than dogs do. Choose a complete and balanced kitten food that meets AAFCO nutritional standards for growth.

• Wet versus dry. A combination of wet and dry food works well for most kittens. Wet food adds moisture, which supports kidney and urinary tract health for life. Dry food is convenient and easier to free-feed in small portions.
• Taurine. All commercial cat foods that meet AAFCO standards already contain enough taurine. Cats fed dog food or homemade diets without veterinary guidance can develop a serious heart condition from taurine deficiency.
• Feeding schedule. Three small meals a day until about six months, then two meals a day. Some cats do best with smaller, more frequent meals throughout the day.
• Portion size. Follow the bag guideline as a starting point and adjust based on body condition. We score body condition at every visit.
• Therapeutic diets. If your kitten has a confirmed condition like urinary crystals, food allergy, or pancreatitis, your veterinarian may recommend a therapeutic diet dispensed through the clinic.

Foods to avoid for cats: onions and garlic, raw fish (thiamine deficiency risk), raw bread dough, alcohol, chocolate, grapes and raisins, and lily-family plants in any form (even the water from cut lilies is dangerous). Cats are also exquisitely sensitive to essential oils, especially tea tree, eucalyptus, and citrus oils.

Parasites: What to Know

Kittens carry intestinal parasites from birth in most cases. Deworming starts very young.

• Deworming schedule. Most kittens are dewormed every two weeks starting at two weeks of age, then monthly until six months. Your kitten’s exact schedule depends on what they received from the breeder or shelter.
• Fleas. Coastal BC’s mild winters mean fleas are present year-round. Even strictly indoor cats can get fleas from a person bringing them in on clothing. Monthly flea prevention is recommended for Burnaby kittens.
• Ear mites. Common in kittens from breeders, shelters, or with previous outdoor exposure. We check at the first visit and treat with a topical product. Persistent head shaking or dark, gritty discharge in the ears is a sign to come in.
• Giardia. A parasite from wildlife and standing water. Indoor cats are less exposed, but kittens recently adopted from a shelter or hoarding situation can carry it.
• FIV and FeLV testing. We strongly recommend testing every new kitten for feline immunodeficiency virus and feline leukemia virus at the first wellness visit, regardless of where they came from. A simple in-clinic blood test gives an answer in about ten minutes. 

Litter Box Success

Most litter box problems trace back to setup, location, or a hidden medical issue. The basics:

• Number of boxes. One per cat plus one extra. A single cat needs two boxes. Two cats need three. Place them in different rooms.
• Size and style. Large enough that the kitten can turn around comfortably. Many adult cats prefer uncovered boxes over hooded ones, even though hooded boxes feel cleaner to humans.
• Litter type. Most kittens accept unscented clumping clay litter. Avoid heavily perfumed or sharp-textured litters.
• Location. Quiet, accessible spots, never beside the food bowl, never inside a closet that gets shut by accident. Avoid placing the box right beside a noisy appliance.
• Maintenance. Scoop daily. Empty and wash the box fully every one to two weeks.

Litter box problems are a medical signal until proven otherwise. A cat that suddenly urinates outside the box, strains to urinate, urinates frequently in small amounts, or cries in the box may have a urinary tract issue. Male cats in particular can develop urinary blockage, which becomes a life-threatening emergency within 24 to 48 hours. Call (604) 540-7387 the same day if you see any of these signs.

Socialisation and Cooperative Care

The kitten socialisation window is narrower than the puppy window, running from about two to nine weeks of age. Kittens who have already left their mother by the time they come home can still be socialised, but the early weeks are gold.

• Daily handling. Gently touch ears, paws, mouth, and tail every day, paired with treats. This is the foundation of every future nail trim, ear cleaning, and dental check.
• Carrier training. Leave the carrier out in the kitten’s main living space with the door open and a soft towel inside. Feed meals and offer treats inside the carrier. The carrier becomes a safe space, not a sign of an unwanted trip. This single habit changes vet visits for the rest of their life.
• People and sounds. Introduce your kitten gently to different voices, the vacuum, the doorbell, and the sounds of normal home life. Pair new sounds with food.
• Other animals. Slow, controlled introductions to any resident pets, with the kitten in a separate room initially and a barrier-based meet-and-greet before any face-to-face contact.

Play, Enrichment, and Safety

Cats are predators. Play that mimics hunting (stalk, pounce, kill, eat, groom, sleep) is core to their wellbeing.

• Wand toys. Mimic prey movement. Two short sessions a day for ten to fifteen minutes each suit most kittens.
• Puzzle feeders. Slow eating and engage their problem-solving. Especially helpful for indoor-only cats prone to weight gain.
• Vertical space. Cat trees, shelves, and window perches. Cats use the third dimension far more than dogs, and giving them vertical territory reduces stress in multi-cat homes.
• Unsafe toys. Avoid string, ribbon, yarn, dental floss, hair elastics, and feathers that have come loose from wand toys. Linear foreign bodies (anything string-like) are one of the most serious surgical emergencies in cats. See the next section.
• Window safety. Secured screens are non-negotiable in apartments and condos. High-rise syndrome is a real and avoidable injury pattern in Metro Vancouver cats.
• Catio and harness options. A catio (a fully enclosed outdoor cat patio) or a harness-and-leash routine is a safe way to give an indoor cat outdoor enrichment without the risks of free-roaming. Free-roaming cats face traffic, coyotes, dogs, infectious disease, and dramatically shorter lifespans.

Children and Other Pets

Children

Teach children to approach the kitten quietly, never to chase, and to recognise warning signs like a swishing tail or pinned-back ears. Cats need a guaranteed safe retreat (a high shelf or a closed-off room) that children cannot enter.

Other Cats

Introducing a new kitten to a resident cat is a multi-week project, not a single afternoon. Start with the kitten in a separate room. Swap scents (a blanket or sock from each cat). Then do barrier introductions (a baby gate or cracked door). Face-to-face meetings come last and stay brief. Watch for relaxed body language and shared resting nearby as signs of acceptance.

Dogs

If a dog already lives in the home, the kitten needs a vertical escape route the dog cannot reach. Keep first introductions short, the dog on a leash, and reward calm behaviour from both animals. Some cats and dogs become best friends; others quietly coexist. Both outcomes are fine.

Foreign-Body Ingestion Hazards

Linear foreign bodies are one of the most dangerous emergencies cats face. String, yarn, ribbon, dental floss, sewing thread, and tinsel can anchor at the base of the tongue while the rest of the strand passes into the intestine, where it cuts through the intestinal wall as the gut tries to pass it. Call us immediately at (604) 540-7387 if you see string hanging from your cat’s mouth or anus. Do not pull on it.

Watch for these signs of foreign body ingestion in cats:

• Repeated vomiting that does not settle
• Lethargy and refusal to eat
• Abdominal pain or a hunched posture
• Constipation or straining with little or nothing produced
• Visible string or thread from the mouth or rear end

Outside our hours, contact Canada West Veterinary Specialists in Vancouver at 604-473-4882. They are a 24-hour emergency hospital.

Holiday and Household Hazards

Cats are far more sensitive than dogs to many common household items. Keep these out of reach.

• Lilies. All true lilies (Easter, Tiger, Asiatic, Day) are highly toxic to cats. The pollen, leaves, petals, and even the water from cut lilies can cause acute kidney failure within hours of exposure. There is no safe dose. Do not keep lilies in a home with a cat. If your kitten is exposed, call us immediately.
• Other toxic plants. Sago palm, oleander, tulips, daffodils, autumn crocus, philodendron, and pothos.
• Essential oils. Tea tree, eucalyptus, pine, citrus, cinnamon, peppermint, and wintergreen. Diffusers in particular put oils into the air your kitten breathes for hours.
• Human medications. Acetaminophen (Tylenol) is lethal to cats at very low doses. Ibuprofen, antidepressants, and ADHD medications are all dangerous.
• Cleaning products. Concentrated cleaners, especially those containing phenols or pine oil. Bleach and chlorinated products can cause respiratory irritation. Always clean with the cat out of the room and air out before letting them back in.
• Holiday hazards. Tinsel, ribbon, ornament hooks, raw bread dough, chocolate, grapes and raisins, and anything containing xylitol.

Grooming Basics

• Coat care. Short-haired cats need a weekly brush. Long-haired breeds (Persian, Maine Coon, Ragdoll) need daily brushing to prevent painful mats, especially around the armpits, groin, and rear.
• Nail care. Trim every two to three weeks. Use cat-specific clippers and take only the tip of the nail, avoiding the pink quick. Start in short, treat-paired sessions in kittenhood.
• Ears. Healthy cat ears need very little intervention. Wipe the outer ear gently with a veterinary cleaner if you see waxy buildup. Persistent head shaking, dark gritty discharge, or odour means a vet visit.
• Toothbrushing. Start very young. A pet-safe toothpaste and a soft kitten toothbrush, used daily, build a habit that adult cats often tolerate well. Dental disease is one of the most common health problems in adult cats, and home brushing makes a real difference. 
• Bathing. Most cats never need a bath. Long-haired cats with mats or cats with skin conditions may need occasional bathing with a vet-recommended shampoo.
• Professional grooming. Long-haired cats with severe mats sometimes need a professional groom. Edmonds St. Animal Hospital offers veterinary-supervised medical grooming for cats who need a calmer environment or pre-medication for a stress-free trim. 

Local Health Notes

Burnaby and the Metro Vancouver region carry a specific set of considerations for kittens that out-of-province content does not capture.

• Window safety in condos and apartments. Burnaby’s density means many new kittens grow up in high-rise apartments and condos. Secured window screens are non-negotiable. Even on a low floor, an open or partially open window with no screen is a risk.
• Catios and balconies. Many Burnaby condo balconies can be safely converted to a catio with rigid mesh enclosures. A properly enclosed balcony gives indoor cats fresh air and enrichment without exposing them to traffic, coyotes, or infectious disease.
• Coyotes and urban wildlife. Coyotes are a regular presence in Burnaby greenbelts, parks, and increasingly in residential neighbourhoods. Free-roaming cats and small kittens left outdoors are at real risk.
• Lilies in spring bouquets. Lilies are widely sold at florists across Metro Vancouver for Easter, Mother’s Day, and Valentine’s Day. If you live with a cat, keep them out of the home entirely.
• BC dog licensing only. Unlike many cities, Burnaby does not require licensing for cats, though microchipping is strongly recommended. Indoor cats benefit just as much, since an escaped cat without a microchip has very little chance of getting home. 
• Outdoor disease exposure. Cats who go outdoors face FIV, FeLV, parasites, and territorial wounds. We strongly recommend keeping cats indoors or in a controlled outdoor setup like a catio. Free-roaming cats in Metro Vancouver live dramatically shorter lives than indoor-only cats.

Low-Stress Veterinary Visits

Carrier Training

Carrier training is the single most important thing you can do to make vet visits less stressful for your cat. From the day you bring your kitten home, leave the carrier out in their main living space with the door open. Put a soft towel inside, feed meals and treats inside, and let the kitten use it as a regular hiding spot. By the time they need to go to the vet, the carrier is a familiar place, not a once-a-year trauma.

Before the Visit

Spray a cat-calming pheromone (Feliway) inside the carrier and on the towel 30 minutes before leaving. Drape a light towel over the carrier in the car so the kitten is in a quieter, darker space during transit. Keep the carrier on the floor or buckled in (not on a lap or seat where it can slide).

In the Clinic

Bring high-value treats your kitten loves. We use treats throughout the visit to build positive associations. If your kitten is anxious, ask us about pre-visit anti-anxiety medication for future appointments. Stress changes everything about how a visit feels for a cat, and there is no virtue in toughing it out.

Happy Visits

You are welcome to drop in for a happy visit any time during clinic hours. A treat, a quick weight check, and back out the door again. No exam, no needles. Cats benefit enormously from coming to the clinic when nothing is wrong. Call (604) 540-7387 if you want to plan one in advance.

When to Contact Us

Call Edmonds St. Animal Hospital at (604) 540-7387 the moment something does not seem right with your kitten. We hold same-day appointments open for urgent concerns every day of the week, and we accept walk-ins for urgent matters during clinic hours when staffing allows.

Contact Us Same Day For

• Repeated vomiting, especially if no interest in water
• Diarrhoea, particularly with blood or going on more than 24 hours
• Straining to urinate, urinating outside the box, or crying in the box (male cats in particular)
• Sudden lethargy, weakness, or collapse
• Difficulty breathing or open-mouth breathing
• Suspected toxin ingestion (lily, essential oil, human medication)
• Visible string hanging from the mouth or rear end (do not pull on it)
• Wounds, limping, or significant trauma
• Any seizure or fainting episode
• Eye injury, squinting, or coloured discharge from the eyes

Schedule a Routine Appointment For

• Vaccination boosters and yearly wellness exams
• Spay or neuter consultation
• Dental cleanings and dental check-ups
• Nutrition and weight management discussions
• Behaviour and litter box concerns
• Microchipping and travel documentation
• Gradual skin, coat, or breath changes

Outside our hours: For overnight or weekend emergencies, contact Canada West Veterinary Specialists in Vancouver at 604-473-4882. They are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Pet Insurance

Pet insurance can make a meaningful difference if your kitten ever needs unexpected care, especially in their first three years when accident and illness rates are highest. We strongly recommend exploring coverage before your first appointment with us, because pre-existing conditions identified at a vet visit are typically not covered going forward.

Several providers operate in Canada. The list below is educational only and is not an endorsement of any single provider.

• Trupanion
• Pets Plus Us
• Petsecure
• Economical
• Intact

Edmonds St. Animal Hospital direct-bills Trupanion at checkout, so if you choose Trupanion you only pay your share at the front desk rather than waiting for reimbursement. Other carriers are accepted and we provide the documentation you need to submit on your end.

Frequently Asked Questions

When does my kitten need their first vaccines in Burnaby?

Most kittens start their core FVRCP vaccine series at six to eight weeks, with boosters every three to four weeks until they are sixteen weeks old. Rabies is added at sixteen weeks. The schedule follows AAFP guidelines and applies to all kittens in Burnaby, whether they live near Metrotown or further east near Edmonds. Call (604) 540-7387 to book your kitten’s first appointment, and bring any records you already have.

At what age should I spay or neuter my kitten?

Most kittens are spayed or neutered at five to six months. Waiting longer offers no medical benefit and creates real risks, especially for female cats who can come into heat as early as four months and develop pyometra later in life if left intact. We confirm the right timing at the wellness visit based on your kitten’s growth and health.

Does my kitten need to be tested for FIV and FeLV?

Yes. We strongly recommend testing every new kitten for FIV and FeLV at the first wellness visit, even if they came from a shelter that did basic screening. Either virus can be passed from the mother before adoption. The test takes about ten minutes in-clinic and gives you a clear answer for the rest of your kitten’s care.

My kitten is having litter box problems. Should I be worried?

Yes, litter box problems are a medical signal until proven otherwise. Sudden urination outside the box, straining, frequent small urinations, or crying in the box can mean a urinary tract infection, urinary crystals, or in male cats a urinary blockage that becomes a life-threatening emergency within 24 to 48 hours. Call (604) 540-7387 the same day if you see any of these signs.

Is it safe to let my kitten outdoors in Burnaby?

We strongly recommend keeping cats indoors or in a controlled outdoor setup like a catio or a harness-and-leash routine. Burnaby’s wildlife, traffic, and outdoor cat populations expose free-roaming cats to coyotes, vehicles, FIV, FeLV, parasites, and territorial wounds. Indoor cats and catio cats live dramatically longer, healthier lives in Metro Vancouver.

What should I feed my new kitten?

A complete and balanced kitten food that meets AAFCO nutritional standards for growth. Cats are obligate carnivores, so a combination of wet and dry food works well for most kittens. Avoid dog food, raw fish, and homemade diets without veterinary guidance. We are happy to recommend specific brands based on your kitten’s needs.

How do I prevent unwanted kittens until my kitten is spayed?

The most reliable approach is to keep your kitten indoors until they are spayed or neutered. Female kittens can come into heat as early as four months, and male kittens become fertile around the same age. Pregnancies in very young cats are common when kittens are allowed outside before surgery, so plan the spay or neuter for five to six months and keep them inside in the meantime.